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low and slow or fast and quick?

2/15/2023

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Last week I had some time to braise a chuck roast for dinner. I found a delightful recipe in “Lidia’s Italy” cook book for Beef Braised in Barolo. The meat cooked in a liquid consisting of Barolo wine flavored with onions, carrots, celery, garlic, fresh rosemary, dried porcini mushrooms and fresh sage leaves. For seasonings, freshly grated nutmeg, salt and whole peppercorns. I went to Palmer’s Quality Meats in Neptune City, NJ to select a well-marbled piece of chuck. The recipe serves 6, but since it was just my husband and I, a 3-pound piece was perfect for braising.
 
To prepare the meat, I is seasoned with salt, browned and caramelized in a large pan with extra virgin olive oil. After browning, the meat is removed and the vegetables are placed in the pan and coated with pan juices. Next, herbs, grated nutmeg, peppercorns, dried porcini, additional salt and pepper are added and the mixture is cooked for several minutes. The vegetables are moved to the outer rim of the pan and the meat and its accumulated juices are returned. A bottle of wine is added with the beef immersed halfway.
When I went to purchase a bottle of Barolo at Ocean Wine and Spirits in Ocean Township, NJ, little did I realize that it was a bit more than I wanted to spend for cooking.  I asked a salesperson for assistance, although he was an outside vendor, he was very helpful in suggesting a wine made with a Nebbiolo grape. Barolo is a region of Italy located in a section of Piedmont. True Barolo has DOCG (Denominazion di Orignine Controllata e Garantita) classification that specifies certain production methods and guarantees quality. The wine suggested to me was Villadoria Bricco Magno made from grapes from Langhe and Roero vineyards located in Serralunga d’Alba. A fine wine, with a slightly lower price point was the perfect alternative for this recipe. The meat is cooked in a 250° oven for 2-1/2 to 3 hours.
 
After cooking, the meat was tender and moist. My husband thought it could have used more salt. I served it along with mashed potatoes topped with the reduced pan juices and the braising vegetables. Overall, something different and delicious for supper.
 
Another recipe from last week is from The NYT Cooking website, Spicy Citrus Skirt Steak. The recipe called for skirt steak, however, I substituted a cut called Bavette. Bavette is a flap steak, flat like a skirt or hanger and can be cut form from the abdominal muscle or lower chest area of the cow. It’s also a cut that has a loose texture and isn’t tough or chewy. It’s price point was less than hanger or skirt steak.
 
Besides the beef for this recipe you’ll need, citrus (six tangerines, satsumas or mandarin oranges), unseasoned rice wine vinegar, low-sodium soy sauce, sambal oelek or sriracha, fresh ginger, fresh garlic, kosher salt, black pepper and a neutral oil. The oranges are cut in half and juiced to obtain 1 cup of liquid. To the juice you add rice vinegar, soy sauce, Siriracha, fresh ginger, fresh garlic, salt and pepper.
 
If you don’t use all six oranges, the balance are placed on a sheet pan along with the Bavette and coated with neutral oil. I grilled the Bavette over a medium-high to high heat, five minutes per side or until the internal temperature reached125° on a meat thermometer. While the meat cooked, the orange halves are placed on the grill to be charred. When done, the meat is placed on a deep serving platter with the citrus sauce. The charred oranges are squeezed with tongs to release their juice into the sauce. Let the steak rest from five to 30 minutes before slicing.
 
Oh gosh, was this heavenly! The Bavette was so tender, a nice beefy flavor and the sauce enhanced the meat. My husband said to put an asterisk next to this recipe as it was so delicious and perfect for company. I served it with Jasmine rice, which I drizzled with some of the citrus sauce and green beans. It was the perfect Saturday night meal. 

Beef Braised in Barolo
Stufato al Barolo
“Lidia’s Italy”
Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali
Published by Alfred A. Knopf
©2007 by Tutti a Tavola, LLC

Serves: 6 or more
 
5-pound boneless beef roast, chuck, or bottom round, trimmed of fat
​2 teaspoons coarse sea salt or kosher salt to taste

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions (1-pound total), peeled and quartered
3 big carrots (about 1/2 pound), peeled and cut in 2-inch wedges
4 big celery stalks, (1/2-pound total), cut in 2-inch chunks
​6 plum garlic cloves, peeled

2 branches fresh rosemary with lots of needles
6 large fresh sage leaves
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1-ounce dried porcini slices (about 1 cup, loosely packed)
Two 750-milliliter bottles Barolo or as needed
2 cups beef stock, or as needed
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
 
Heat the oven, with a rack in the center to 250°.
 
Season all surface of the roast with 1 teaspoon salt. Pour olive oil into the big pan, and set over medium-high heat. Lay the roast in, and brown it on each side for a minute or two, without moving, until caramelized all over. Remove to a platter.
 
Still over medium-high heat, drop in the cut vegetables and garlic cloves, toss to coat with oil, and spread out in the pan. Drop in the rosemary, sage leaves, grated nutmeg, peppercorns, dried porcini, and remaining teaspoon salt, and toss all together. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently and scraping up the browned meat bits on the pan bottom, just until the vegetables soften, then lower the heat.
 
Push the vegetables to the sides, and return the roast to the pan, laying flat on the bottom. Pour in the two bottles of wine and any meat juices that collected on the platter. The roast should be at least half submerged--add beef stock as needed.
 
Cover the pot, and heat until the wine is steaming but not boiling. Uncover the pan, and place it in the oven. After 30 minutes, rotate the roast so the exposed met is submerged in the braising liquid. Braise this way, turning the meat in the pan every 30 minutes, for about 3 hours or until fork-tender. The liquid should not boil-if it does, pour in some cold water to stop the bubbling, and lower the oven temperature.
 
After 2-1/2 hours or so, check the beef with a meat thermometer. When its internal temperature reaches 180°-it should be easily pierced with a fork--take the pan from the oven. Remove the meat to a platter, with intact carrot and celery pieces to serve as a garnish.
 
Skim any fat from the braising juices, heat to a boil, and reduce to a saucy consistency that coats the back of a spoon. Pour through a sieve set over a clean container. Press in the juices from the strained herbs and vegetables pieces. Pour in any juices from the meat platter, and season the sauce to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. (If you are not going to serve right away, put the meat and reserved vegetables in the sauce to rest and cool, for a couple of hours or overnight.)
 
To serve, slice the meat crosswise (easier when it is cool). Pour a shallow layer of sauce in a wide skillet, and lay the slices in, overlapping. Heat the sauce to bubbling, spooning it over the beef, so the slices are lightly coated. Lift them with a broad spatula, and slide onto a warm platter, fanned out. Heat the carrots and celery in the sauce too, if you have saved them, and arrange them on the platter. Serve, passing more heated sauce at the table. ​
beef_braised_in_barolo.pdf
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​Spicy Citrus Skirt Steak
By Ali Slage
“Ditch Marinating for Delicious (and Faster) Summer Grilling”
The New York Times, June 28, 2021
 
Time: 30 Minutes, plus grill heating
Yield: 4 Servings
 
1½ pounds skirt steak (see Tips)
8 tangerines, satsumas or mandarin oranges, washed and halved horizontally
6 tablespoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar
6 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon sambal oelek or Sriracha, plus more as needed
1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and finely grated (about 1 tablespoon)
1 garlic clove, finely grated
Kosher salt and black pepper
Neutral oil, such as grapeseed
 
  1. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for two-zone cooking over high heat: For a charcoal grill, pour the coals onto one half of the grill. For a gas grill, heat all the burners, then turn off one of the end burners. (See Tips.)
  2. While the grill is heating, pat the steak dry and cut into 5- to 6-inch pieces with the grain. (This makes it easier to fit on the grill.) Set aside to air-dry while you make the sauce: Squeeze 1 cup of juice from about 6 tangerines into a bowl or rimmed dish large enough to hold the steak after it’s grilled. (Set aside the remaining unjuiced halves on a sheet pan.) Add the spent tangerine halves to the juice. Smash the halves with a spoon to release the rind’s oils (as if you’re muddling a cocktail). To the juice and spent tangerine halves, add the rice vinegar, soy sauce, sambal oelek, ginger and garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Stir to combine.
  3. When you're ready to grill, add the steak to the sheet pan of unjuiced tangerine halves and lightly coat everything with neutral oil. Season generously with salt. Bring the sheet pan of tangerine halves and steak, sauce, a tightly folded paper towel soaked with oil, and tongs to the grill. Clean the grates with a grill brush, then oil the grates with the paper towel. Grill the steak over direct heat, flipping halfway through, until well browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Grill the tangerines over direct heat, flipping halfway through, until blackened, 4 to 5 minutes per side.
  4. As the steak and tangerine halves finish, add them to the sauce and turn to coat. Squeeze the charred citrus with your tongs to release the juice and the peels into the dish. Let rest for at least 5 minutes and up to 30. Slice the steak against the grain and serve with the sauce. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sambal oelek.
Tips
  • You can dry-brine the steak in advance, which seasons the meat and locks in the juices. Pat the steak dry, season with 1 teaspoon salt, and refrigerate uncovered overnight. Let come to room temperature before cooking. (No need to season with salt again before grilling.)
  • High is above 450 degrees. You should be able to hold your hand 4 to 5 inches above the grates for 2 to 3 seconds.
spicy_citrus_skirt_steak.pdf
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