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steamy days of summer

7/15/2023

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​The steamy days of summer really put a kink in one’s cooking. However, I’ve been finding some delicious one pot pasta dishes that go well in this hot weather. Melissa Clark’s recipe for One-Pan Shrimp Scampi with Crispy Gnocchi takes about 30 minutes to prepare and makes for a quick post-beach supper. In last week’s Dreyer Farms CSA box, I had two green zucchini that came just in time to try Alexa Weibel’s recipe for One-Pot Zucchini-Basil Pasta. As Sunday was overcast and gray, why not bake even more cookies. I made Rosemary Walnut Biscotti from a vintage issue of “Gourmet Magazine, December 1992.
 
If you are a subscriber to The New York Times, you can find Melissa Clark’s recipe in her column “A Good Appetite.” This recipe appeared in the article titled “Give Your Gnocchi the Shrimp Scampi Treatment,” published in October 2022. I love this recipe because it’s quick, you can use fresh or frozen shrimp and shelf stable gnocchi, such as Wegmans potato gnocchi, which I love. For the recipe you’ll also need extra virgin olive oil, unsalted butter, fresh garlic, dry white wine (clam juice or broth works too), kosher salt (Diamond Crystal), black pepper, red pepper flakes, one pound of shrimp, a lemon and fresh chopped parsley.
You just got off the beach and the family is hungry. You whip out a large, hopefully non-stick skillet and start heating up the oil. The gnocchi go in the pan and cook until they are golden brown all over. Place them in a dish and melt some butter. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant. You’re on a roll, now add the wine, salt, black pepper and red pepper flakes; cook until reduced. In the home stretch you add the shrimp and sauté until just pink. Add the gnocchi back to the pan and add a bit more salt, lemon zest and parsley. Toss all the ingredients together so everything is well coated. You’re almost there, add some cut lemon and a squeeze of juice from one half and give another toss. Taste to adjust seasoning, pat yourself on the back as dinner is done!
 
What a flavorful dish. My husband and I devoured just about this entire meal. The gnocchi had a nice crispness, sauce was tart with a bit of heat and the shrimp were tender. A great quick meal in the books.
 
One-Pot Zucchini-Basil Pasta is the second Alexa Weibel recipe that I’ve made. Not only did I use my CSA zucchini, but I picked some fresh basil from my herb garden. You’ll also need vegetable stock, medium pasta shells, mascarpone (or crème fraîche or softened cream cheese), fresh garlic, kosher salt, black pepper, roasted and salted almonds and fresh parsley.
 
Before I make any of the recipes I find on the NYT Cooking app, I read through the cook’s comments. For this recipe, I followed several suggestions to enhance the recipe. Here are the adjustments I made based on the comments:
 
  • 16-ounce box of pasta instead of 12-ounces
  • 32 ounces of vegetable stock
  • Neufchatel cream cheese (it’s what I already had)
  • One shallot diced
  • Two cloves of minced garlic
  • 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of red pepper flakes
  • Zest of one lemon
 
For the cooking process, I again heeded the advice of another cook and sautéed the diced zucchini, garlic and shallot in my LeCrueset braiser. I seasoned the vegetables with salt, red pepper flakes and cooked until the vegetables were slightly softened. I removed the vegetables from the pan and added the box of stock.
 
The heat was brought up to medium high so the stock would begin to boil before adding the pasta. Once added, I stirred to coat all the pieces. Softened cream cheese was mixed in and stirred until it melted.  Although the pasta had a cook time of 8 minutes, it took additional time. Approximately five minutes before I thought the pasta would be done, I added the vegetables and mixed.
 
While the pasta finished cooking, I made the gremolata which consisted of chopped basil, parsley and almonds. I didn’t have smoked almonds, but I did roast whole almonds to bring out their flavor before chopping.
 
To serve, you add the pasta to the bowls and dress with a sprinkling of gremolata, no grated cheese needed here. Wow, what a dish! My husband said it was a “chef quality” meal. The pasta was perfectly cooked, between the cream cheese and starch from the pasta, it made for a light, creamy sauce. The topping of gremolata added a nice contrast in textures and add a freshness to the dish. This was absolutely marvelous.
 
Tomorrow I have an appointment with my orthopedic doctor. When I had my hip replaced, I baked him an assortment of Italian biscotti. He’s not a sweet lover, but did enjoy my Biscotti di Prato. This time I dug out my vintage “Gourmet Magazine,” one of several that survived our Super Storm Sandy basement flood, to make Rosemary Walnut Biscotti. The recipe is from the baking instructor Carol Field, who is known for book "The Italian Baker.
 
For this recipe you’ll need unbleached all-purpose flour, cornmeal (preferably stone-ground), double-acting baking powder, salt, an egg, plain non-fat yogurt, unsalted butter, toasted walnuts, and fresh rosemary, which came from my herb garden.
 
Using a stand mixer, mix the dry ingredients, egg and yogurt first. Next, add the butter and finally the walnuts and rosemary. The dough is turned out onto a floured work surface and kneaded several times. A five-minute rest period is needed before shaping into 12-inch x 2-inch-wide logs. Although the recipe calls for baking at 325°, the next time I’ll bake at 350°. After 25 minutes, I tested the logs and a toothpick came out clean. However, after cooling for 10 minutes, I started to slice the log and noticed the center was still a bit raw. An additional 10 minutes was needed. After slicing and baking I kept the temperature at 350° and baked a second time for 15 minutes without turning the cookies over.
 
This is an interesting flavor for a cookie. You had the subtle flavor of rosemary, a slight crunch from the walnuts and a soft, yet firm crumb to the cookie. I could see eating these with a glass of red wine. I hope he enjoys them.

One-Pan Shrimp Scampi with Crispy Gnocchi
By Melissa Clark
The New York Times, “A Good Appetite”
October 26, 2022
 
Time: 25 minutes
Serves: 3 to 4
 
INGREDIENTS
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1-pound gnocchi (fresh, frozen or shelf-stable)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
½ cup dry white wine (or clam juice, or broth)
Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving
1-pound large or extra-large shrimp, shelled (deveined, if you like)
1 lemon
½ cup chopped parsley
 
PREPARATION
  1. In a large, preferably nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high. Add gnocchi to the pan, breaking up any that are stuck together. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes, tossing every 1 to 2 minutes, so they get golden and crispy all over. Transfer to a bowl or plate.
  2. In the same skillet over medium-high, add remaining 1 tablespoon oil and all of the butter, letting it melt for a few seconds. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add wine, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon black pepper and all of the red-pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer, and let the wine reduce by half, about 2 minutes.
  3. Add shrimp and sauté until they just start to turn pink, 2 to 3 minutes, depending on their size.
  4. Return gnocchi to the pan and add another ¼ teaspoon salt. Using a microplane or other fine grater, grate the zest from the lemon into the pan. Add parsley, tossing well. If your pan looks dry, add a splash of water, 1 tablespoon at a time, tossing to combine, then remove pan from the heat.
  5. Cut the naked lemon in two and squeeze in the juice from one half, gently tossing to combine. Taste and add more salt if you like. Cut the remaining lemon half into wedges for serving.
  6. Top with more olive oil and more red-pepper flakes, if you’d like, and serve with lemon wedges on the side.
one-pan_shrimp_scampi_with_crispy_gnocchi.pdf
File Size: 61 kb
File Type: pdf
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​One-Pot Zucchini-Basil Pasta
By Alexa Weibel
New York Times Cooking
 
 
Time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 Servings*
 
Ingredients
2¾cups vegetable stock
12ounces medium pasta shells
2medium zucchini (about 14 ounces total), trimmed and cut into ½-inch cubes
4ounces mascarpone, crème fraîche or softened cream cheese
1large garlic clove, finely chopped
⅓packed cup thinly sliced basil
Kosher salt and black pepper
3tablespoons chopped roasted salted almonds
3tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

​PREPARATION
  1. In a large, deep 12-inch skillet, bring stock to a boil over high heat. Once stock boils, stir in pasta, zucchini, mascarpone, garlic and half the basil; season generously with salt and pepper and reduce the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring frequently, until pasta is tender and liquid is reduced until thickened and creamy, 12 to 13 minutes, adding a splash of water during the last few minutes of cooking if needed to moisten. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  2. Meanwhile, prepare the gremolata: Chop almonds and parsley with remaining basil until finely chopped and combined; season with salt and pepper.
  3. Divide pasta among shallow bowls. Sprinkle with gremolata and serve immediately.
 
*Donna’s Notes
Based on comments from other cook’s, I made the following adjustments to the recipe.
 
  • Before heating the stock, I sautéed the chopped zucchini, two cloves of garlic, one shallot and a sprinkling of red pepper flakes in olive oil. I softened the zucchini slightly then removed to a bowl. I added the zest of one lemon to the zucchini mixture and tossed.
  • I used one pound of penne that I already had (package cooking time 8 minutes) pasta and a 32-ounce container of vegetable stock.  
  • . Five minutes before the pasta was to be done, I added the zucchini mixture to the pot and mixed it in with the pasta. Although the package said the pasta should be done in 8 minutes, it took 14-16 minutes to be al dente.
one-pot_zucchini_basil_pasta.pdf
File Size: 93 kb
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​Rosemary Walnut Biscotti
“Foods for Holiday Giving – Biscotti”
By Carol Field
“Gourmet Magazine” December 1992
 
Yield: approximately 40 biscotti
 
2-1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornmeal (preferably stone ground)
1 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
½ cup plain non-fat yogurt
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into bits and softened
¾ cup walnuts, toasted and chopped coarse
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, chopped fine or 1 teaspoon dried crumbled
 
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment blend the flour, the cornmeal, the baking powder and the salt, add the egg and the yogurt, and beat the mixture on low speed until a dough is formed. Add the butter, beating until it is just incorporated and stir in the walnuts and the rosemary.
 
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, knead it several times and let it stand, covered with a kitchen towel for 5 minutes. Halve the dough and working on a large buttered and floured baking sheet with floured hands, form each piece of dough into a flattish log 12 inches long and 2 inches wide. Arrange the logs at least 3 inches apart on the baking sheet, bake them in the middle of a preheated 325°F oven for 20-25 minutes, or until they are set and pale golden, and let them cool on the sheet on a rack for 10 minutes. On a cutting board cut the logs crosswise on the diagonal into ½-inch thick slices, arrange the biscotti, cut sides down, on the baking sheet and bake them in the 325°F oven for 10-12 minutes on each side, or until then are pale golden. Transfer the biscotti to racks to cool and store them in airtight containers.
 
Donna’s Notes: Although I baked the cookies at the suggested temperature, because they weren’t quite baked through, I had to bake for an additional 10 minutes. I would increase the oven temperature to 350°. Make sure you test the doneness by inserting a toothpick into the dough. The biscotti are a bit delicate, therefore, I wouldn’t turn the cookies over during the second baking. Bake for 12-15 minutes, or until golden brown on the bottom. 
rosemary_walnut_biscotti.pdf
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